Hats made from beaver felt are considered to be among the best made. The Pinnacle is considered the best dress hat made by Stetson because it is made of genuine beaver felt.

The felt for men’s hats normally is made from one of three kinds of fur: beaver, rabbit or wool. Beaver felt is considered the rarest and most refined of the three. Felt is made by matting the soft undercoat hairs of these fur coats and then treating them with hot water and steam, pressing them, folding them and repeating many times until the individual hairs are indistinguishable and a fabric has formed a tight bond. Mercury nitrate used to help speed up this process, but the fumes in poorly ventilated work spaces drove many hatters to insanity. Thus the birth of the phrase “mad as a hatter.”

As a fabric, felt is one of the strongest, and oldest, natural fabrics made by humans. Its strength helps to make it a durable material for hats. When treated properly, it can last for many years. However, repeated exposure to heat and moisture also trigger felt’s natural tendency to shrink.

After the felt is made and dyed, it is then blocked on special handmade wooden models. It is carefully steamed and pressed into place. The brim is crafted in a device called a flange. The brim gets a treatment of flattening with steam and pressure. Stiffeners are added to help the brim hold its shape. Many manufactures do not treat the crowns of fedoras and pork pies with stiffeners, but bowlers are especially prone to stiffening. Dress hats made of wool are more likely to see stiffener, regardless of their style.

Once the hat has its shape, it is sanded to a smooth and even texture. The inner lining is added next, along with the leather sweat band. Both items provide comfort and protect the hat. The lining is particularly important for protecting the felt (and any stiffener) from the oils and styling products in your hair. The outer hat band and other trimmings are added last.

Of course, this is just the basics of how it is done. Stetson will make its hats a little differently than Biltmore, which makes its hats a little differently from Borsalino, and so on.

We’re thankful for the fine fur felt,
And hats on which the snow will melt.

Stetson, Kangol, Dobbs, Biltmore
But mostly we are thankful for

Customers who share our passion
for proper toppers in their fashion.

For weekly greetings by regular clients
and visits by Chicago’s sporting giants.

We’re thankful for our loyal staff,
in all the ways they help and laugh.

So, as we take stock of the lives we’re living,
We wish you all a Happy Thanksgiving.

As we move forward on this segment, we might offer greater details about more difficult challenges, but for now we’ll stick to the basics.

DUST.

No matter how many filters they put in our cars, offices and homes, we just can’t avoid it. Your hat is bound to get dusty at some point.

The good news is, dust is fairly easy to remove from most any kind of felt hat.

HAT CLEANING RULE #1
Never, never, never use water or other liquids to clean your hat.

To clean the dust and loose dirt from your hat, take a soft brush and gently stroke the hat from the left counter clockwise to the back and around again. Work slowly without a lot of pressure. Repeat until you are satisfied.

If you do not have a soft hat brush, then you can use a lint roller or tape that isn’t too sticky. Be mindful of the grain of the fur felt in your hat. Work the lint roller in the same direction to avoid causing any damage.

Prefer a hat brush, Hat’s Plus sells them for only $10 a piece. Please contact the store for more info.

Whether they’re actors, Halloween revelers or clubbin’ cats makin’ the scene, it is great to hear each individual story.

Jason is an actor taking classes at Second City, the Chicago comedy club that serves as the “farm system” for “Saturday Night Live.”  He has always been a hat fan.

“I’m big on the Kangols and the newsies,” he said.

But today he came in on a special occasion.

“I’m shopping for a hat for a movie I’m going to be playing a jazz character in,” Jason said.

He said it is an indie picture that doesn’t have a formal title yet, as it was just about to start production. He promised to keep us posted on the title and the film’s release. He bought a stingy brim Broner fedora he was certain would make the character’s look complete.

Tom came in on what might possibly be the last 70 degree day of the year with an eye toward the cooler days ahead. He is a prefers fedoras and already has several.

“I’m looking for a brown one for fall and winter,” he explained while discussing his visit. He was last seen smiling into a mirror with a brown Stetson Sutley perched up top.

A husband and wife came in, preparing for their trip to spend Halloween in New Orleans. Approached while staring at several hats resting on a red vest with black pin striping, Aaron said, “I’m trying to match it with my outfit.”

A red Bailey Crushable Fedora won the battle. Not only did it’s red and black coloring match the vest, it was the perfect hat for traveling.

Meanwhile, Aaron’s wife found the green Biltmore Tyrolean and gently reminded him, “Christmas is coming.”

“I really don’t think that hat would work for me,” he said.

“Not for you,” she prodded. “For me.”

By mid-afternoon, our biggest hat challenge of the day entered the store. Jeff walked in with a beautiful plum red and black fur coat and wanted a hat to match it.

“It’s made from chinchilla,” he explained, as he stroked the thick, soft fur that nearly swallowed his entire hand.

Where does one wear such a spectacular coat?

“You ever hear of steppers?” Jeff asked, referring to the dance style popular in films such as “Stomp the Yard.” “There are a few clubs I like to go to to watch them. And, well, you gotta look good.”

Matching the color was impossible, but finding a color that would accentuate the coat wasn’t so difficult. Jeff liked the red fur felt of the Biltmore Tyrolean, but he liked the look of the Biltmore Designer Series Fedoras.

Store owner Martin Mann proposed a potential solution and offered to call Biltmore directly to see if they could make a Designer Series fedora in the red fur felt of the Tyrolean. That seemed to make Jeff’s day, and the two traded information to see if Biltmore could provide Jeff with exactly what he wanted.

And that level of customer service is one of the greatest benefits Hats Plus offers its shoppers. Sometimes we can request custom designed hats at affordable rates. It really just depends on the manufacturers having the capability and materials to tackle such jobs.

Gary, on the other hand, is more representative of our average customer.

“I just like to wear hats,” he said while perusing the Borsalino leather ivies. Then, with a sheepish grin, he added, “Plus, I’m losing my hair a little and am looking to keep warm.”

No matter what reason you are looking for hats, we’ve got you covered.